Men's Style Terminology

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C

Chevron

A pattern characterized by inverted V's. In the 1820s Chevron patterns characterized Art Nouveau design.

Chino

A type of cotton twill that can be finished with a smooth or mercerized brushed surface. Originially used as summer uniforms for the U.S. Army because their durability. Washes and wears extremely well.

Club Collar

Part of Eton College’s dress code in the 1800’s, the rounded edges of the collar look best on thin faces. The softness of the points softening sharp vertical lines.

Color meanings: Suits

Brown - projects reliability, durability, comfort, warmth
(natural colors: khaki, tan, taupe, warm tones)

Gray - Associated with intelligence, confidence in the future, security
(Charcoal, Silver)

Black - Reflects sophistication, confidence, wealth, and power.
(Paired with white it conveys truth and confidence)

Navy - Dependability, reliability, strength, trust and honesty.

Color meanings: Accessories

Red - Agression, dominance, power, sexuality

Purple - Inspiration, creativity, royalty, dignity, mystery.
(Plum, violet, lavendar, burgundy)

Pink - Gentleness, sweetness, comfort, happiness

Blue - Truth, trust, security, conservatism, masculine

Green - Growth, tranquilty, freshnesss, rejuvenation, calming

Yellow - cheer, optimis, vitality, stimulates communication

Orange - warmth, energy, activity, excitement

White - Innocence, cleanliness, truth, purity, sophisticated

Collar

coming soon

Collar Bar

A pin or a clip that secures the two ends of a dress shirt collar together and lies underneath the knot of a necktie.

Collar Stay

A small tab that is inserted inside of the collar, running down to the collar points. Allows for an overall better shape, fit and roll of a collar. The newest edition is the Power Stay. A collar stay that is placed in the collar, and then a magnet is fitted on the inside of the shirt to hold the collar down.

Comfort Waistband

A waistband characterized by an elastic quality that offers more give and comfort.

Continuous Collar/Cuff

A fashionable shirt style in which the fabric for the collar and cuff is cut on the cross (vertical) allowing for the shirt pattern to flow in a continuous direction from the body to collar and cuff.

Contrasting Collar

A shirt collar that is a different color or pattern than the rest of the shirt. Usually found on Ken's summer custom shirts.

CoolMax

a licensed form of polyester developed by DuPont. It is a breathable and moisture wicking fabric.

Corduroy

A fabric composed of twisted fibers that lie in distinctive vertical or horizontal rows. Each row, known as a wale, can vary in width. Corduroy wears well, has a soft luster, and is typically used for pants, sport coats, and shirts. Tradionally, in Dallas, corduroy in in the thin wale variety for a lighter weight.

Cotton

Gathered from the seed pods of the cotton plant, the fiber is most often spun into yarn or thread and used to make a soft, breathable textile. The most widely used natural-fiber cloth in clothing today, cotton fibers have a high degree of strength, durability, and absorbency. There are several grades of cotton; Egyptian cotton is considered to be the finest, with Sea Island as its domestic counterpart. Although less expensive, Pima cotton is also of high quality due to its extra-long staple fibers.

Covered Placket

A button or zipper closure that is hidden under a fold of cloth. Also called a "Fly Front." See also "Placket"

Crystal

A clear, colorless glass of superior quality. Something a man would select to pour an aged scotch.

Cuff

Ken's Dress Shirts have 7 different types of collar combinations, 6 cuff combinations, and 3 sleeve.

Cummerbund

A broad waistband worn with a tuxedo The pleats, always facing up, were originally used to hold theater tickets. Now we say, "to catch the crumbs".

Cutaway Collar

A collar whose points are pulled back to the side to allow full view of the necktie knot. This is ideal for wide and prominent neckwear that requires an unimpeded presentation.

D

Dash Stripes

A pattern of stripes in varying widths of two or more colors.

Deco

A style of design marked by geometrics motifs, bold colors, sharply defined outlines, curvilinear and stylized forms.

Dobby

Refers to the dobby attachment on a weaving machine, or fabric constructed with this attachment. Fabric made up of a decorative weave, usually characterized by small geometric or dot designs. Dobby fabrics are perfect for dress shirts as they are generally fine and flat.

Donegal

Dating back to the 1800s, a knit or tweed with coarse, nubby multicolored yarns that are combined with single-colored yarns to produce a mottled effect.

Double Breasted

Refers to a sportscoat, jacket, or similar garment having a wide overlapping of the front flaps and two parallel columns of buttons. A functional inner-button, called the jigger, usually is added to fasten the over-lapped layers together, from the inside. In most double-breasted coats, one column of buttons is decorative, the other functional. Popular double-breasted stylings are 6-on-2 in which there are six buttons, four decorative and two functional and 6-on-1 in which only one of the six buttons is functional. New slim styles are showing a 4-on-1 but with a trim lapel.

Double-Faced Fabric

Having a finished face on both sides so that either may be used as the outer, or right side. This makes for a polished look. On sport shirts, double-faced fabric allows for a clean appearance when rolling up sleeves or leaving the shirt unbuttoned layered over one of our comfortable tees.

Double Press Turnback Placket

The fabric on the left front panel is folded over to create the placket allowing stability and durability without the use of interlining. Ken's uses this on all instock shirts. Also called "French Fly Front". See also "Placket"

Double Reverse Pleats

Trousers with pleats open to the pockets. The first pleat is a 1" depth and second pleat is a ½" depth.

D-Ring

An adjustable ring on waistband allowing for a better fit without the need for a belt.

Driving Moccasin

This shoe is characterized by a rubber outsole that extends over the heel, usually in the form of rubber nubs, thereby allowing the wearer to easily rest on a surface, such as while driving (hence the name), without ruining or scuffing the leather on the heel of the shoe.

E

Edge Topstitch

¼" Topstitch.

Embedded Collar Stay

In addition to the removable collar stay, this is an added small piece of collar stay that is sewn into the point seam of the collar to give more stability to the collar point. This added piece will prevent the collar points from curling under after several washings. All Eton shirts come with the embedded collar stay.

Embossed

Raised or relief patterns on the surface of the fabrics produced by using pressure in conjunction with engraved rollers and heat applications.

Enamel

Protective and decorative. An opaque, glass-like composite fused to metal, glass or pottery.

End-on-End

A shirting fabric where a colored yarn is woven in one direction and white yarn is woven in the other to produce a textured effect

English Spread Collar

A wider spread than the Windsor Spread Collar with longer points.

English Tab Collar

The tab collar holds the tie perfectly in place using a snap or button that brings the collar points closer together, creating an always neat appearance.

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