Men's Style Terminology

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E

Epaulet (Epaulette)

French for "little shoulder", epaulettes are bands of fabric, often attached with a button, that adorn the shoulders of a jacket or coat. They were originally used as insignia or rank by the military and other organizations.

Essentials Collection

The V. K. Nagrani collection is an example. A collection of business wardrobe classics every well-dressed man should have in his closet.

European Straight Collar

An edge stitched straight collar for a slightly more modern look.

Eyelet Collar

Reminiscent of the Gatsby years, the eyelet collar allows for the use of a collar pin to hold the points in place.

F

Fabric Care

Detailed fabric care instructions.

Fedora

Classic hat style traditionally made of soft felt, however straw and twill fabrics can also be used. The hat is creased lengthwise down the crown and pinched in the front on both sides. For added interest some fedoras include small feathers which are inserted in the band around the crown. Borsalino is the epotome of a classic Fedora.

Fiber

The basic element from which yarns are made.

Field Jacket

Its beginnings were of a military origin, the field jacket is characterized by large lower bellowed pockets and two breast pockets.

Flannel

A soft woven fabric. Usually a twill weave that is slightly napped, or brushed on both sides for additional warmth and comfort. Ken's uses a "mill finish" to give the look and feel of flannel without the weight, because of the nature of Dallas temperatures.

Flat Front

Trousers without pleats. A sleek, clean look.

Fly Front

See "Covered Placket"

Four in Hand

The four-in-hand knot is a method of tying a necktie. Also known as a simple knot or schoolboy knot, due to its simplicity and style.

French Facing

See "Scalloped Facing"

French Fly

The French fly helps to ensure that the pant front lies flat for a neater, cleaner appearance.

Fully Fashioned

A fully fashioned knit is an indication of a better quality. Compared to a cut-and-sewn knit where the separate pieces are sewn together, fully fashioned is a method of knitting a garment in which the complete unit is shaped and knit on the machine as it is formed. A fully fashioned knit is characterized by fashion marks around the armhole (shoulder) and neckline. The portions of a garment are shaped by increasing or decreasing the number of loops in the width of the fabric, such a narrowing and widening produces the shape of the garment. This results in an overall better fit.

Fully Lined

See "Lining"

G

Gabardine

A tightly woven combed yarn characterized by vertical twill lines created by using more threads in the warp (horizontal) than weft (vertical.)

Gauge

A unit of measure abbreviated as GG. Expressed by the number of needles of a knitting machine in a 1"-1.5" area in the production of a knit garment or fabric. As a general rule, the higher the gauge, the finer the fabric, whereas the lower the gauge, the bulkier the knit. Commonly used gauges range from 9GG-16GG.

Gingham

A plain woven fabric typically of a checked pattern in white and another color. Usually made of cotton, gingham is associated with check, plaid or stripe patterns.

Glen Plaid

A fabric featuring a design of small and large woven checks.

Gold Plated

A thin coating of gold over an alloy metal.

Grosgrain

A type of fabric characterized by its ribbed appearance. It is most often used to refer to ribbon.

Guabello®

Distinguished Italian Mill. The finest materials, refined finishing techniques, Lanificio Gaubello's® over 150 years of experience give their fabric a unique and exceptional quality. Singular comfort. Remarkable softness. Quite possibly the finest wool in the world.

Guage

A unit of measure abbreviated as GG. Expressed by the number of needles of a knitting machine in a 1"-1. ½" area in the production of a knit garment or fabric. As a general rule, the higher the gauge, the finer the fabric, whereas the lower the gauge, the bulkier the knit. Commonly used gauges range from 9GG-16GG.

H

Haberdasher

: a person who owns or works in a shop that sells men's clothes
: a person who owns or works in a shop that sells small items (such as needles and thread) that are used to make clothes

Half Canvas Construction

The inner canvas layer of the suit that gives it shape, structure, and strength. While you can't see it, this all important part not only shapes the suit from the start, but also has a memory for your shape, giving you a better fit. This feature really does separate one suit from another.

Half-Lining

A half lined jacket is lined on the top half and sleeve, but the bottom half is not lined and the seams are taped for a clean finish. Half lined is usually done on jackets with lightweight fabric, so the lining doesn't add weight to the jacket.

Half Windsor Knots

The half-Windsor knot, also known as the single Windsor knot, is a way of tying a necktie which produces a neat, triangular knot. It is larger than the four-in-hand knot and Pratt knot, but smaller than the Windsor knot. The half-Windsor is derived from the Windsor in that it is only brought up around the loop on one side rather than both. It works well with light- and medium-weight fabrics.

Hand

The hand describes the overall qualities of a fabric. Such qualities as softness, silkiness, etc are revealed through the sense of touch. A Kenism, "Ken's gives good hand".

Handcrafted

A work produced by hand labor. Our cufflinks from Megin Spivey are skillfully handcrafted.

Handmade

Made by hand or hand process. Seven fold ties set themselves apart from a standard tie with their superior construction. Roughly a square yard of silk (usually two or more pieces sewn together) is folded to create seven sections of silk between the folds. The weight and body of this tie are derived from the layering of silk and typically requires an hour or more to construct. Every section is hand stitched with exquisite detail and constructed entirely out of the same silk fabric front to back. Seven fold ties are untipped or unlined, as they are made completely out of luxurious silk. These handmade ties were once a traditional craft that is now nearly all but forgotten in an effort for most tie makers to cut costs. All of our other handmade ties are cut by hand from generous amounts of silk. The generous pieces of silk allow all three parts of the tie to be cut “fully on the bias” (or diagonal) and also ensures that there is sufficient silk to create a deep fold at the back of the tie, which gives the tie a more luxurious feel. After cutting the three silk tie parts, the blade, neck and tail are joined together and tipping is then sewn into the blade and the tail of the tie.

Heather Yarns

A yarn consisting of differently colored fibers that are blended together to give a soft, muted look. Heathered yarns got their name because of the purple color they portrayed when used in early tweeds which resembled heather-covered moors.

Herringbone

A variation on a twill weave fabric, in which the twill is reversed, or broken at regular intervals, producing a distinctive V pattern resembling the skeleton of a herring fish.

Hidden Buttondown Collar

Similar in appearance to the straight collar, buttons hidden underneath the points hold the collar in place. A portion of our Ken's sport shirts are selected to have hidden button down collars.

High Twist

Fabric with the sense of cool touch and superb surface by using high twist yarn; good drape, excellent elasticity.Unparalleled drape and wrinkle resistance.

Houndstooth

A fabric with distinctive broken checks that resembles the jagged back teeth of a hound. This staple pattern, once popular with hunting clothing, is often found in shirts, sportcoats, suits and trousers.

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