Men's Style Terminology

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I

Imperial 100's cotton broadcloth

A premium shirting fabric made with two-ply threads (two individual threads are twisted together) which make it durable, soft, and lustrous.

Inside Pockets

All of Ken's sportcoats and suit jackets are constructed with four inside pockets: two breast pockets, one on each side, with a security flap on wearer's right side pocket, one pen and one cell phone pocket on left inside. The latter is only available in one size. Does not fit the I Phone 6 plus or similar sized devices.

Intarsia

A design created by knitting colored yarns on both sides of a fabric. Intarsia designs are usually isolated forms, not repeat patterns.

Interlock

Knitted with closely interlocking stitches, this fabric maintains an exceptionally smooth hand, good drape and provides a little extra stretch for increased comfort.

J

Jacquard

A fabric with a design woven into it. The word jacquard comes from the nineteenth-century French inventor of the special loom this elaborate fabric is woven on, Joseph Marie Jacquard. The jacquard attachment allows for any pattern, no matter how large, small or intricate to be woven in a fabric.

Jersey

Jersey was first made on the Island on Jersey off the English coast and used for fisherman's clothing. Today it is commonly found in t-shirts and is very resilient with fine draping qualities and crease-resistance. Jersey wears and washes well.

K

Keyhole Buttonhole

Characterized by a round hole at the end of the slit to accommodate all types of buttons without distorting the fabric.

Knit

A process of making a fabric or garment with hand- or machine-made interlocking looped stitches, first used for making stockings. Although knitting was not a common use for making clothing until the 19th Century, they are now a comfortable, easy wardrobe staple.

L

Lambswool

A soft, smooth, resilient wool yarn from the first shearing of a sheep younger than eight months old. Fine grade wool.

Lapel

The turned-back front section of a jacket or coat that connects to the collar and forms a "V" where the jacket or coat closes. See also Notch Lapel and Peak Lapel

Leather

A material created through the tanning of the skin or hide of an animal. There are many different finishes which can be used including sueding, glazing, embossing, etc.

Linen

A natural fiber produced from the stem of the flax plant. Stronger, stiffer, and more lustrous than cotton, it yields cool absorbent fabrics that wrinkle easily. An easy and ideal summertime fabric with its breathable qualities.

Lining

Jackets can be fully lined or half lined. A fully lined jacket is lined on the entire inside so no seams show. A half lined jacket is lined on the top half and sleeve, but the bottom half is not lined and the seams are taped for a clean finish. Half lined is usually done on jackets with lightweight fabric, so the lining doesn't add weight to the jacket.

Loafer

Loafers are low, step-in shoes with no shoelaces or buckles, often made of leather or suede. The loafer is a classic style with a broad flat heel. Variations would include the penny loafer and tassel loafer.

Long Staple Cotton

Cotton whose fibers are over 1 1/8 inches long. Longer staples cottons create increased durability and hand (how pleasing the fabric feels) of the garment because they can be spun into finer threads than shorter lengths of cotton.

Luxury 140's Cotton Broadcloth

A very luxurious yarn, the higher thread count and resulting closeness of weave gives it a superior hand and remarkable luster.

Luxury 200's Cotton Broadcloth

Woven from some of the finest cottons in the world, our Luxury 200's Two-Ply Cotton offers an extremely silky touch and incredibly fine patterns.

Lycra®

A trademark DuPont fiber that has incredible flexibility and recovery. Lycra® is a brand-name spandex that is usually woven with other fibers to provide ease of movement in fabrics.

M

Madder

Refers to a natural dye used since ancient times, although it has since been translated into synthetic dye. Most commonly used on silk, it creates beautiful deep, muted, soft colorations usually paired with paisley and small geometric patterns in neckties. Indusrty professionals refer to it as Ancient Madder.

Madras

A bold plaid plain-weave fabric. This lightweight fabric was originally hand woven in Madras, India from cotton yarns dyed with native vegetable colorings.

Medalian

A piece of carved or engraved metal that is usually circular in shape. Can also represent a medallion print on fabric.

Melange

Refers to two different color threads twisted together, creating a heather effect.

Mercerized Cotton

A special kind of cotton yarn that is more lustrous than conventional cotton. It is also stronger, takes dye easily, makes the yarn more resistant to mildew and reduces lint. Mercerized yarn stays shiny through washing and gives a nice, somewhat fancier look to finished items. Mercerization is named for John Mercer, who developed the process and received a patent for his work in 1851. Mercer found that adding caustic soda or sulfuric acid to cotton made the fiber swell and straighten. However, in 1890 Horace Lowe developed a process by which caustic soda was added to the yarn under high tension, which added the luster that mercerized cotton is famous for today.

Merino Wool

A better-quality wool yarn made from the fleece of merino sheep. Merino sheep are said to have the finest and softest wool of any sheep.

Microfiber

Continuous filament fibers that can be spun to be thinner than a silk thread and therefore allows manmade fibers to have an array of aesthetic and performance qualities. Microfiber is used to make non-woven, woven and knitted fabrics. The combinations of synthetic fibers can add specific characteristics, such as softness, durability, absorption, wicking abilities and water repellency.

Mill Finish

Mill finish or semi-mill finish is used to describe the soft, downy effects of fulling and/or napping. Some finishing techniques, such as fulling, have been in use with hand-weaving for centuries. The finish gives a "fluff" to the material making it look like a flannel, but without the weight.

Mock Neck

A knit pullover finished at the neckline with a short, fitted knit band that does not fold over. An abbreviated version of the turtleneck.

Modal

Fiber made by spinning reconstituted cellulose from beech trees. Textiles made from Modal have soft, smooth surfaces are water-absorbent and resistant to shrinkage and fading.

Mohair

Mohair comes from the Angora goat. Best breeding on very dry land. South Africa and U.S.A. are the leading producers. Very fine, lustrous, but slightly brittle fiber. Used in summer weigh suitings and tuxedos. Often mixed with worsted or silk.

Moleskin

A heavy cotton fabric, woven and then sheared to create a short soft pile on one side. Well-known for its buttery-soft, almost suede-like hand, moleskin cotton is also long-wearing and substantial.

Monk Strap

A casual or dress shoe with a single or double strap closure, usually with an adjustable buckle.

Mother-of-Pearl

The lining of an oyster or type of mullusk which is iridescent and lustrous. This high quality, luxurious material is often used in cufflinks.

MP3 Pocket

Found on certain sportcoats, the convenient interior MP3 pocket has a safety closure and ear bud.

N

Nano Technology

Provides liquid and stain repellency, shape retention and resistance to creasing.

Napping

Uses metal rollers to raise the surface of fibers, giving the fabric a soft, lofty flannel-like feel. See Mill Finish

Natural Fibers

Textile fibers from animals and vegetables without a majjor manufacturing process needed.

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