Men's Style Terminology

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N

Nested Suit

A suit in which jacket and trousers are sold together. The nested suit also sometimes includes a vest. Compare to Suit Separates in which jacket and trousers are sold separately.

Non-Iron Cotton

Enjoy the comfort of cotton without the wrinkles for a clean, crisp presentation. Garments which are 'non-iron' have seams which are taped to prevent puckering. The completed garment is [then] treated with an ammonia process, pressed and baked to make the entire garment wrinkle free. Ken's does offer a non-iron dress shirts that are machine washable and should not be dry cleaned.

Notch Lapel

A collar that has a triangular notch where the lapel meets the collar. This is traditional on single-breasted suits.

Nylon

A synthetic fiber that is silky, strong and higly resilient. Nylon was originally introduced in the 1940s by DuPont for women's stockings. However, it is widely used today and is often combined with other fibers to increase durability. Nylon has definitely paved the way for easy-care garments.

O

Oltolina

Oltolina produces fabrics for high quality shirts for international markets. It has a modern machinery and 150 skilled workers subdivided between the production in Asso and the finishing in Busto Arsizio. The classical and fancy fabrics of cotton are woven using the most precious twisted yarns in the world.

Ombre Plaid

A plaid in which the colors transition by way of fading.

Ottoman

Long staple plain weave with a horizontal cord or ribbed effect.

Oxford

A weave in which the warp (horizontal) has two fine yarns paired together and one heavier softly-spun weft (vertical) yarn, which gives the fabric a subtle basket-weave look and a lustrous finish. Well known for men's shirts, it is also used for summer jackets and sportswear. Originated by a Scottish mill, oxford was one of their four shirting fabrics named after famous universities, along with Harvard, Yale and Cambridge.

P

Paisley

A swirled tear-drop shape pattern commonly found in neckties.

Panama

A Panama hat is a traditional brimmed hat that is made from the plaited leaves of the panama-hat palm (Carludovica palmata). Despite the name, genuine Panama hats are made in Ecuador, not Panama.

Parquet

A diagonal twill dobby woven in a pattern of squares resembling a parquet floor.
Also See Dobby

Patch Pocket

A flat, outside pocket stitched onto a garment with a straight hem opening. Paul Fredrick offers four types of patch pockets: Triangle Round, Straight Round, Mitered Pocket, and Button-Throught Pocket.

Patchwork

A fabric design consisting of squares, or patches, of varying pattern or color.

Peak Lapel

A lapel in which a v-shaped seam is formed where the collar meets it. This is the most formal and is found on double-breasted jackets and some single-breasted styles.

Penny Loafer

See "Loafer"

Performance Collection

Travel-friendly, easy care collection of jackets, pants, and shirts. Polished good looks withstand the rigor of travel with style. Wrinkle-free and stain resistant garments are a staple of this collection.

Pick Stitching

A large stitch that simulates a hand stitch. The pick stitch is done around the lapel and pockets of a jacket.

Piece Dying

Dying sweater and other knits in finished form.

Pilling

Created when fibers gather into small balls on the surface of the fabric.

Pima Cotton

A high-quality, very strong, exrta-long staple cotton named after the Pima Native Americans, who first cultivated the plant in Arizona in the early 1900s. Pima cotton is considered one of the most superior blends of cotton.

Pinpoint Oxford

A finer yarn and tighter weave than oxford. A weave in which the warp (horizontal) has two fine yarns paired together and one heavier softly-spun weft (vertical) yarn, which gives the fabric a subtle basket-weave look and a lustrous finish.

Pinstripe

A pattern of very thin, crisp lines, usually in gray or white, evenly woven into fabric. The pinstripe suit has become associated with conservative business attire, but is easily updated for a more refreshing look.

Piping

A narrow fold of fabric in a seam to provide decorative embellishment. Usually seen in sport coats, suit jackets, and blazers in a contrasting color.

Pique

A durable woven or knit fabric that is characterized by an allover textured pattern of raised parallel cords or fine ribbing. Generally cotton yarn, the most popular patterns are birdseye, diamond, waffle and honeycomb.

Placket

A strip of fabric running along a closure, used to provide support for fasteners such as buttons, snaps, or a zipper. Almost always used to facilitate putting on or taking off of a garment, but are sometimes used as a design element as well. When using Ken's custom program one will be asked if they wish to have a design fabric (or opposing solid color) under or inside the placket.

Plaid

A fabric with a pattern of bars and stripes that cross each other at right angles. Plaid fabrics may be printed or woven and come in a variety of colors.

Plain Weave

A basic weave, utilizing a simple alternate interlacing of length and crosswise yarns over and under, alternately. Any type of yarn and fiber can be manufactured into a plain weave fabric.

Pleats

A fold of fabric made by doubling material over on itself. Pleating provides more volume to a garment and is often used as a decoartive feature.

Pockets

Ken's offers 6 types of pockets: Triangle Round, Straight Round, Mitered, Button-Thru and Besom. The 6th is a "pen pocket" which is set off to the side to hold ones pen in place.

Polyester

A man-made fiber resistant to shrinkage and wrinkling. Polyester is often combined with other fibers such as wool and cotton as a way to provide low-maintenance dressing options.

Polynosic

Known for luxurious softness and superior drape, polynosic is a type of natural microfiber. Considered finer quality than regular rayon yarns, it resists stretching to maintain shape over time.

Poplin

A plain-weave, tightly woven, durable fabric with a crosswise rib, creating a slight ridge effect.

Pratt Knot

The Pratt knot is a method of tying a tie around one's neck and collar. It is known for its symmetry and trim precision. The Pratt knot is unusual in that its starting position is 'reverse side out'. It uses less length than the half-Windsor or Windsor knots, and so is well suited to shorter ties or taller men. Unlike the four-in-hand knot, the Pratt method produces a symmetrical knot. It is of medium thickness.

Print

A fabric or garment with a dyed pattern that has been pressed onto it. Prints date back thousands of years, but technology has allowed prints to be developed more simply and in a variety of effects. A printed garment always helps to bring an outfit to life.

T

Trousers

Double reverse pleats and single reverse pleats on trousers open to the pockets. Box pleats are formed by two folded edges facing away from each other.

S

Shirts

Back pleats are on woven shirts to allow ease of movement. Ken's offers two types of back pleats: box pleat and side pleat. Box pleats are in the center back of the shirt and are used on all buttondown collar dress shirts, except trim fit. Side pleats are located on each side of the shirt back. They are used to allow greater ease of movement in the shoulders compared to a box pleat. All sport shirts, trim fit dress shirts and all other dress shirts, except the buttondown collar styles have side pleats.

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