Men's Style Terminology

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S

Super Wools

The story of this thread is the numbering system used to describe the new breed of super-lightweight, high-twist wools. Pioneered by Italian mills, these fabrics are made using high-tech machines that spin wool lighter and finer than it's ever been spun before. The various grades of cloth are referred to as Super 100s, Super 120s, Super 150s and so on, up to Super 200s. Make Super 100s and Super 120s the mainstay of your wardrobe. They are durable, resilient, and today's fabrics are superb. Treat the Super 150s and Super 180s as caviar, wonderful, but not to be worn every day, for these really are connoisseurs' suits.

Swarovski® Crystal

The luxury brand name for the range of precision-cut lead crystal glass and related products produced by Swarovski® AG of Wattens, Austria.

T

Tassel Loafer

See "Loafer"

Tencel / Lyocell

Tencel® is the trademarked brand name for Lyocell, a cellulose fabric that is achieved through an organic solvent spinning process. Lyocell has good moisture absorption and static resistance. It is also very durable and provides as subtle luster.

Tessitura Monti

Based in the north of Italy, Tessitura Monti is known for high quality 100% Egyptian cotton shirtings. In business for over 98 years, Monti is proud to be contiuing in their belief of providing superb quality of design and production.

Textured Solid

A solid, one color fabric with a textured weave, creating a pattern.

Top Center Placket

Also called a "Traditional Front," a top center placket uses a separate piece of fabric and a fused lining to give it additional durabiliy. See also "Placket"

Top Stitch

See ¼" Top Stitch

Traditional Straight Collar

A universal collar; the most versatile, easy to wear style. Click here for a visual comparison of Dress Shirt collars.

Tred Stripe

Stripe resembling the tred marks of a tire.

Trilby

A Trilby hat is a soft felt men's hat with a narrow, flexible brim and a deeply indented crown. Traditionally it was made from rabbit hair felt, but now it is sometimes made from other materials, such as tweed, or wool. Ken's carries a Trilby in the fall with the Bailey collection. They are similar to fedoras, but with a narrower brim. See "Fedora"

Trim Fit

Also referred to as a slim cut, the body of the shirt is 5” narrower in the chest tapering to 6” narrower at the waist. A perfect fit for those who do not need the full body cut or a comtemporary fit.

Tropical Weight Wool

A smooth wool fabric made from two-ply yarns in an open plain weave. Lightweight and airy, this fabric is great for summer wear.

Twill

Fabrics created by interlacing the warp and weft so that the fabric has a diagonal slant or twill line. Twill fabrics have a front and a back side, unlike plain weave, where the two sides are the same. The face side of a twill fabric is the side with the most pronounced wale and is usually more durable, more attractive, and used as the fashion side of the fabric.

U

Unsolid Solid

Solid, one color fabric in which a pattern is created by varying the weave.

V

Varsity Spread Collar

A shorter version of the Windsor Spread, updated with slightly curved lines.

Variegated Stripe

A stripe with streaks, marks or distinguished by a variety of different colors.

Velvet

Fabric that has a pile, which is usually cut and brushed for a plush surface effect, offering a rich texture.

Vent

A vent is a slit in the bottom rear (tail) of the jacket. There are three vent options in a jacket: center vent, side vents or no vent. Ken's custom will offer these vents in varying lengths depending on the size or design of the gentlemen.

Vermeil

A durable and tarnish-resistant overlay of gold on sterling silver.

Virgin Wool

Wool spun for the first time. Not recycled. See "Wool"

W

Warp

Lengthwise threads of a woven fabric.

Water Resistant

A fabric finish that allows the garment to resist the penetration of water. This finish is commonly found in performance garments. Ken's carries a modern brand Salence that adhers to this theme.

Weft or Fill

Thread that is woven across the warp at a right angle.

Windowpane

A pattern of thin lines forming large squares on a background of a different color. Windowpane was a very popular pattern at the height of Savile Row style and is very common today for men's suits, trousers, and sport coats. A raised window pane can be felt when placing the fingers across the hand of the fabric.

Windsor Knot

The Windsor knot, also referred to as a Full Windsor or (misleadingly) as a Double Windsor to distinguish it from the half-Windsor, is a method of tying a necktie. The Windsor knot, compared to other methods, produces a wide symmetrical triangular knot. The Windsor knot is especially suited for a spread or cutaway collar that can properly accommodate a larger knot. For correct wear, the tie used for a Windsor knot should be about 1.6 inches longer than a conventional tie.

Windsor Spread Collar

A conservative spread collar appropriate for any occasion.

Wing Tip

A wing tip shoe has a decorative toe cap that is usually perforated and covers the toe of the shoe and extends backward along the sides of the shoe from a point at the center.

Wool

A fiber obtained from the fleece of a sheep. It is a resilient and wrinkle resistant fabric. Wool can hold up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling wet. A great fabric for keeping warm in the cold winter months. Ken's sells wool socks in the fall and winter for this reason.

Worsted Wool

A carded, combed, tightly twisted yarn that produces crisp, smooth woolens.

Wrinkle Resistant

Treated to resist wrinkles. Although not non-iron, these treated fabrics will keep you looking polished all day long.

Y

Yarn

A strand of textile fibers joined together, used for weaving or knitting into fabric.

Yoke

The shaped section at the shoulders that connects all the other parts of the shirt. One-piece yokes allow for greater ease of movement where split yokes provide a more tailored look.

Z

Zegna Baruffa Yarns

A wide range of yarns that appear clean and smooth, flowing and extremely light. Zegna Baruffa is an Italian firm with a long tradition of high quality and excellence.

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