Haberdashery News | March 2016

“What is the correct style and length for my pants?” is the most common question we get asked at Ken’s

Men’s pants, whether they are suits, slacks, or casual have become noticeably shorter these past few years. This has nothing to do with the age of the gentleman and everything to do with the circumference of the bottom of the pant leg.

A pleated pant holds on average a 19” circumference or larger starting at size 34 and increases with increasing pant size. A flat front pant on average starts at a 16 1⁄4” at size 34 and also increases as the waist size increases. That is a huge difference that is very much noticeable.

The rule of Ken: “The smaller the circumference, the shorter the trouser.”

I wear a size 32 slack and prefer to wear slim designs. Hence, I should have a 15 3⁄4” (or smaller) circumference and little to no break.

Dallas, Texas is terrific for the business climate, creating a large and diverse group of business men and women working and living within our city. Because of this, I cross many divides in age, titles, and companies, so I don’t go to extremes with my business dress. I aim to stay on the cusp of fashion. My 18-year-old intern is comfortable with a little more edge and prefers to wear his pants 1⁄2” above his shoe line. Point being, how high above the shoe line depends on the taste and lifestyle of the individual.

The “break” on the suit pant depends upon the size of the man and how he wears his clothes. The on trend break at the current time is “mid to slight” for most, and “zero” for those who wish to be a bit more fashion forward.

We are seeing a return to “the cuff” only on suit pants. This cuff is 2 inches, but only placed on the leaner styles and without a break on the trouser leg. We refer to it as “the fashion cuff.”

The casual trousers or khakis by Meyer or BRAX do not require longer lengths nor cuffs. A slight to no break is best for these pants, especially if you choose to wear the pant with a summer suede loafer and “ghost sock” (slipper sock) from Marcoliani.

Hopefully this helps to answer your pant questions and please remember we are always happy to help you find the perfect pair and fit at Ken’s.

Fully Stocked Brands

We love our brands, but we really get excited when they give us more leverage with their stock! The following brands are going to keep you well dressed and stocked for both fashion and comfort!

BRAX – our neighboring country, Canada, has known about BRAX for years, and they finally decided to launch in the states. Ken’s will be one of two stores to carry the brand here in Dallas! They are known for their fit and design, but especially the specialization in fabric selection. Ken’s just received our first shipments of flat front chinos and 5 pocket pants. They are so comfortable that you won’t know they are on and are designed for both business and pleasure! Plus, the weight of the fabric is perfect for the Dallas weather patterns. If you cannot find the exact pair you would like in the store, we can easily order you a single pair from their line to try.

Luigi Bianca Mantova – The men behind the rise and dominance of Zanella are now with Luigi slacks. After Zanella was sold, they all transferred here to help the Lubiam family in Italy move upward on the scale of fashion and fit. Over the past couple of years, the company has metamorphosed into one of our industry leaders. Ken’s is currently stocking the Gino (trim fit) and Antonio (contemporary fit) models. These are comparable to the P-body (Parker) or D-body (Devin) in Zanella. Their stock program consists of all the classic core colors in both models.

Stenstroms & Eton – these Swedish brands have been around since the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. One of them even boasts that they create all the clothes for the Swedish aristocrats and royal house. The way the fabrics feel on the skin, the attention to detail in buttons, linings, and cut are what make these shirts an instant favorite. Their large, in-stock programs have 3 different fits: slim, contemporary, and classic. Each with a beautiful assortment of fabrics to choose from. If it’s not in “the wall” at Ken’s, then let us find it for you!

Ken’s – need a quick suit, sport coat, or tuxedo, but find your size is never available because you are a 42 short, a 46L, or 50R? We now have the availability to create our clothing from the rack and order it in your personal size. Alterations at Ken’s usually take around 2 to 2 1⁄2 weeks, and this program is the same time frame. This is not custom, just an easier way for you to get exactly what your wardrobe needs dictate.

Your closet deserves more attention

A man’s closet needs to reflect his success and not the losses in life. The wardrobe must have good lighting, air, and positivity flowing throughout. How are we to continue to move forward in life and business if our clothes tell us otherwise? We reflect who we are and how we feel about ourselves by what we wear.

It all starts with the closet. Your haberdashers will be asking continually about your closet this season. We want you to be able to move forward with a new outlook this spring. We will even personally come over to assist you with the task.

Over the years, I have cleaned hundreds of closets, armoires, wardrobes, etc. All closets are made differently, and most do not flow with goal of work success in mind. Many of the Dallas’ older homes do not have that much space, so we work with what is given. Our newer homes are quite beautiful, but not designed for function. When we come into a closet our goal is to achieve that functionality for you.

Spring is usually the best time to refresh the wardrobe. We know which sweater, jacket, outerwear, and heavy pant wasn’t worn. Ask yourself, “How long has it been since I wore this?” Why do we let it take up space if it’s not being used? Your haberdasher can donate these items for you. The same holds true for the suits, sport coats, slacks, and dress shirts. If they are not being worn then we need to ask why, and how to either get it in rotation or out of the way. Our goal is for you to use all the clothing in the wardrobe effectively and often.

We also partner with many types of specialists to assist us, if needed. For the last closet I worked on, I brought over a woodworker who created pegs for one wall to hang ties and belts. We also hung a new lighting fixture to better see what we use everyday. The slight transformation was incredible!

Please ask your Ken’s team to come on over and start the process. You will feel a world of difference, create more time and space, and be productive in the things that matter most!

Not all weddings are created the same

Ken’s understands that your wedding is one of the biggest days of your life. We take our wedding consultations and wardrobe creation very seriously, while also remembering the small stuff. It is about combining families together for the first time, and we create the plan for the wedding attire with both sides in mind.

Our process begins with the groom and his bride joining us for a wedding consultation. Later, we create an event for the boys (groomsmen, fathers, ushers, grandfathers) to come over for their night. Each one has been unique, but they almost always contain a lot of laughs. The groom needs to find a way to bring all the men together, so they have the bonds of friendship in more ways than just a bachelor party. This could be achieved through the small accessories or even creating custom shirts for each man. If it can be imagined than we can bring it to fruition.

Weddings for the spring or summer in Dallas can be challenging because of the weather, but with our experience and expertise we will create the perfect wardrobe for the entire male portion of the wedding party. With the help of the bride and groom, we find that the wedding experience can actually be quite fun to create!

Additionally, if requested, one of the haberdashers will be present on your wedding day to be your personal valet for the groom and groomsmen before the wedding. You need to be in the moment on this momentous day and our expertise will help you do just that!